學佛筆記(八)：能解答你生命中最大問題的藥

如果有一種藥，吃了之後你生命中所有的問題都能得到解答，你會想吃嗎?

這幾個月有些網站迅速竄紅，臉書上分享的人很多，其中不乏一些聳動標題如「醫學界不敢告訴你的事」、「看完~~我震驚了」，但我一般不太看這些網站的文章，因為少數看過的幾篇健康類文章，其論點都讓我非常的懷疑，那些文章下方也有很多人提出反駁的看法，有天看到一個標題我才又好奇點進去看，標題好像是說一個讓美國不敢上市的藥，我看了第一段大概是在說在亞馬遜河流域有種藥，吃了可以打開天眼通，可以連結到第三隻眼，作者似乎在批判說，如果這種藥不能上市，那為何像某某某會影響神經系統的藥卻可以上市呢，不過我只很快地看了第一段就沒再看下去。

時間回到去年四月，我來到加德滿都的柯槃寺參加佛學入門課，每天有個小組討論時間討論當天上課的一些佛學概念，我這組其他九人都是歐洲人，有些人在歐洲已有禪修經驗，也有背包客只是好奇而來，有些佛學概念對西方人來說是非常難以接受的，比如「意識」會不斷地延續下去，就是所謂輪迴，此生我們為人，這個人身只是這個意識的載體，但那些願意考慮接受這個概念的人，難免就會想問，如果我們有無數個前世，那麼為何我們不記得呢?

上圖：很多遊客到了達蘭薩拉或加德滿都都會去看一下藏醫，來自高原的藏藥對旅人也有一種神密的吸引力

我不知道一般人如果聽到「天眼通」或「第三隻眼」這些名詞會想到的什麼?是指可以看到記憶深處嗎?有次小組討論時，有位女士說她原本在一個禪修中心學打坐學了幾年了，但她還是覺得不快樂，她沒說為何不快樂，我們也沒問，她覺得這些修行沒有解決到她的問題，那時已上了幾天課了，從她的分享可以感覺到，她似乎也覺得這個課對她的幫助不大，有天不知討論到什麼主題時，她忽然說她曾去過亞馬遜河流域，在巫師指導下吃了一種藥，有一半同學馬上問她怎麼樣，吃了什麼感覺，看來他們本來就有聽過這種藥，他們跟我說這種藥吃下去，就可以得到人生中最想要知道問題的答案，有同學問說，妳有得到妳要的答案嗎?她說有，同學問她問了什麼，但她沒說。

這件事讓我印象深刻，因為我一直在想，她已經知道人生中最大問題的答案，為何還是不太快樂呢?我在這段期間認識了一個墨西哥朋友，他是個生物學家，因此從大學就常到墨西哥偏遠地區常住，有很多機會跟當地原住民交流，他跟我說墨西哥的原住民也有類似的藥，而且他就吃過，我笑說那該不會像是迷幻藥吧，他笑說，相信我，全世界沒有一個國家的人吃迷幻藥或毒品吃得比墨西哥人還多，然後他說迷幻藥吃了以後比較像是晃神，看到的世界會浮動，然後他拍著桌子說，那種「生命之藥」吃了以後所看到的東西as solid as this table!就像這桌子一樣真實，所看到的是實實在在的世界。

我的同學及我的朋友都說，這種藥只能在巫師的指導下使用，若使用不當，有可能就回不來了，這就是為什麼那篇文章我沒再看下去，假使我們相信這種藥真的有一些特殊功效，也不可能是所有醫生都可以開的處方藥吧?

把曾看過的一些書拼湊起來，我的感覺是六七十年代，也就是嬉皮時代，因為幾個因素，讓很多西方人(包括批頭四和賈伯斯)跑到印度來尋找心靈導師：一、眾多藏傳高僧流亡到西方，把「神祕」的藏傳佛教帶入西方，一般人有一種西藏高僧靜坐很厲害的印象，而這些高僧又很「神」；二、諸如「一個瑜伽行者的自傳」類的書盛行，有些人看了這類的書以後，很嚮往那種靈修者的精神體驗；三、嬉皮用藥很多，像LSD(請自行google)這種藥就會讓人產生一種誤以為自己悟道了的幻覺，我不確定是不是為它會讓服用者誤以為自己有out of body experience(意識脫離身體)，但總之這些讓人們對靜坐開始產生興趣，我們FPMT的柯槃寺就是在這種背景下，兩位lama因應很多西方人想學習靜坐或佛學的要求而在1969年成立的。

我曾聽說在Lama Yeshe還在世時，有個嬉皮學生曾在課堂上問他，是不是修習了佛法以後就可以有這種out of body經驗，想做啥就做啥，甚至可以放肆地做愛(註)，結果Lama說，如果佛法是這樣的話，你本來不就在過這種生活了嗎?幹嘛跑來這裏?

靜坐的好處大家可以去看真原醫這本書，但學佛的人應該都知道，靜坐在整個修行裏只是一種方法，不是學佛的目的。

註：這個問題或許是因為該學生對密宗有所誤解，也誤以為有些高僧能夠控制自己的意識流動就表示他們可以為所欲為

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墨西哥路邊美食

上圖：taco是墨西哥最常見的小吃，四處都可以見到攤販在賣這種食物。這個一片10披索(1披索=2.25台幣)，後來發現，有些早餐店，差不多大小，只要8披索，這價位大概是賣給夜店的人吃的宵夜吧。


上圖：taco at Tulum, one for 7 pesos
墨西哥的taco就是在玉米餅上加上各種不同碎肉後，加上洋蔥、青椒及不同醬料，買taco你得跟攤販說，你要選擇哪種肉類，以免吃到你不吃的肉。這個東西我太愛了，因為洋蔥和青椒是我最愛的青菜。


墨西哥有各種類似taco的小吃，從早到晚有不同的吃法，其實只是餅皮厚度、大小不同，上面的肉和菜不同，當然每家店料理的肉和醬料就可以看出功夫高低。上圖是我們第一天的早餐，有點像台灣掛包的玉米餅裏面包著碎肉和各種生菜，份量超大，我們三人合力吃完它，一份只要14披索。

旅伴說，網路上對墨西哥城內的buffet評價頗高，所以我們也找一家在旅館附近的buffet來試試，一個人168披索，在這裏已算是高級享受，不過我還是喜歡路邊美食。

上圖：墨西哥許多地方都有烤雞店

上圖：想吃什麼香料的自己選

 上圖：烤雞附上生菜、炒麵(也可選飯)及玉米餅，加上一杯現打果汁，就是豐盛的一餐了，他們所附的醬料也是一絕，記得拿點辣椒，墨西哥是世界上辣椒上種類最多，也最會用辣椒的國家。

到墨西哥玩，一定要多吃這裏的水果，因為墨哥哥緯度和台灣差不多，且也是多高山的國家，所以水果種類繁多，便宜又好吃，我在很多地方都看到有人在賣切好的綜合水果，吃了很多次，都覺得甜度足、水份高，路上隨處可見現打果汁也很便宜，有時口渴也不買水，就直接吃水果或喝果汁解渴。

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Day 18: last night in Mexico

Having spend more than two weeks in Mexico, I would conclude that Mexico is really a nice place, a place worth u to pay a visit, for several reasons:

1. Admission to the sites are cheap, at least it is reasonable to me, 51 pesos everywhere (one peso is abt 2.5 NTD), and the sites are all amazing and stay in good quality. The tickets are designed in good size with pictures of symbolic item of the sites
2. The sanitary of toilets really beyond my expectation, all clean with toilet paper.
3. Public transportion is everywhere at all classes, so u can travel cheap or luxury
4. Food is cheap and I guess most Chinese ppl would like it. I love tacos with lots of onion and potato, roast chicken is also great.
5. Fruit is great and cheap too. My best happiness is one fresh juice everyday.
6. Usually the price the street vendors give u is reasonable, so no need to negotiate, as I don't like negotiate, but if u wanna get some souvenir, u still have to cut the price for a bit.
7. most hostels give you free water refill.
8. most hostels let you use their kitchens.

I visited 9 world heritage, most are Maya ruins. Is that too much? I wouldn't say so, cuz each ruin is different and with its specific characteristic.

What else u can do in Mexico? I wanted to do a canal trip inside Sian Kaan, one of the world natural heritage, but it is fully booked then, the tour also included scuba diving in the site. Many would do diving in the caves under the ground ( 石灰岩融洞) Or, u can swim with whale (鯨鯊). If u love this type of activities, Mexico is álso the place for u.

Despite my bag got stolen, I would still say most ppl here are very friendly and will try any way to help u, it just that, very few ppl speak English. But anyways, always someone around u can help translation.

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Day 17: cooking dinner for myself

After observing how other ppl cook, I realized it is just like the way that most ppl living alone would do. Simple ingredients and easy to cook and store. Today, I decided to cook, after so many days of tacos. Really like to have more green food.

Vegetable is really cheap here. I did steam potato and stir fried vegetable. Good thing here is hostel offer many types of spices, herbs and peppers. Potato with some salt, spice, and pepper is just as good as what u can have in restaurant. I spare some food for tomorrow long hour trip on bus.

I tried to buy something to read on bus this afternoon, but not too many English books here. Miss Elite bookstore so much.

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Day 16: studying and planning next month agenda at the hostel

Last night my roommate invited me to attend a free salsa class in a city culture center. Most ppl I met all said that "wow, u speak English very well". Truth is, I don't, maybe better than average, but definitely won't consider myself very good English speaker. I think they would have made this comment, simply because they assume Asian ppl don't speak English at all. Admittedly, my language does give me some advantage. I realized, as soon as ppl know I can communicate fluently in English, they become so much willing to talk to me. A lot of ppl I met have been to the countries I will be visiting, and they all love to share their experience with me. So, even without a Lonely Planet, I still know where I should visit and where I can have good Spanish class.

Today I found out, the taiwanese lady can speak Japanese, English, and Spanish. She usually takes a year break every 4 to 5 years. She could travel the entire year in Japan, US and this time in Latin America, and learn a new language with native speaker. And because of her language skills, she has no problem to go back to her career.

Actually, this is also part of my plan, as I also plan to long stay in France and travel in Europe, so to learn French at the same time.(not keen in learning Spanish, don't want pressure while doing travel). So glad to meet someone who is doing exactly what I want to do and very successfully.

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Day 15: visited Tulum beach and the ruins

more pictures please check 20111020_Beach & Ruin in Tulum, Mexico

Went to the beach and the ruins in the morning. A ruin by the beach is just as great as a ruin in a rain forest. And this one I paid only the 51 peso ticket, no maintenance fee.

Tulum is very close to Cancun, so many ppl who visit Cancun will arrange a one day tour to see the ruins in Tulum. Another ruin, Copa is 45 minutes away, many would visit it too. I didn't go to Copa, ad I have seen many ruins.

The beach is free, if u don't want to visit any more ruin, u can still find ur way to get to the beach.

The guy from China cooked lunch for me. Really lucky in this hostel. When I checked in last night, no bed available in the female dorm, a lady happened to know about this, so she moved to the mixed dorm, then I could stay in the female dorm.

This morning, in the beach, a Spanish guy let me use his sunglasses, as mine was stolen. When I report the theft, the police wad surprised to know my sunglasses is more expensive than my small Acer laptop, I told him, that's why Taiwan ppl have to work so hard.

Later today, met another lady from Taiwan, who has been travelling from southern to central America for six months. She shared with me how to protect my stuff as well as the bus information.

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Day 14: visited Chichen Itza and moved to Tulum

more pictures please check here 20111019_Ruins in Chichen Itza, Mexico

Took morning bus to Chichen Itza, 65 pesos. Bus departs every hour and takes u two hours to get to the site.

This one u have to pay 115 pesos maintenance fee as well. But I gave this second thought, it is still much cheaper than all the places I visited in China.

This site is considered one of the new seven wonders in the world, so is definitely the most popular site in Mexico. Probably too many ppl, visitors are now not allowed to step on any pyramid and building. Everything is surrounded by a fence.

Traveled to Tulum after the visit. Stayed at Weary Traveller Hostel, only a few meters from the bus station, 130 pesos for dorm. More days u stay, more discount u will get. This hostel is picked by Lonely Planet, so many ppl. It was really noisy as western backpackers party all night. Tonight they offered free salsa class.

Met a guy from China and he cooked vegetable to share with me.

They never miss any chance to kiss each other.

People sit around to enjoy the sunshine.

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Day 13: visited Uxmal ruins

more pictures please check here 20111018_ruins in Uxmal,Mexico

Bus to Uxmal ruins will take u one hour. Not very frequent, three departures in the morning and three returns from the site in the afternoon. Each way costs u 44 pesos. The return bus we took was supposed to pick us up around 5pm, but we got on the bus only after 6pm.

We were surprised to know this site, in addition to the 51 pesos ticket, requests 115 pesos for maintenance fee. Probably because it is really too popular and too many tourists. People all say, number 1 popular is Chichen Itza and Uxmal ranks the second. Palenque is number 3 popular now.

It was rainy, but only small showers on and off, and luckily I got a pair of Gore Tex.

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Day 12: shopping in Merida

In the morning, went to HSBC to get support from them, as I lost my token too. They connected me to Taiwan service line, really helpful.

Busy shopping and searching new camera and bag in the afternoon. Finally I found good ones in Walmart, but they were considered old generation in Taiwan. Better than nothing, and I need camera so badly, so still got one for this trip.

Churches at Merida

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Day 11: Hostel Zocalo at Merida Mexico

In Merida, I stayed at Hostel Zocalo, 125 pesos for a bed in female dorm. All backpackers are surprised with its unlimited breakfast buffet, with very nice bread and few sorts of fruit, also two cereals. They will make omelettes for u upon ur request without extra charge.

Zocalo in Spanish means main plaza, so there is a Zocalo in all the cities we have visited, so meaning the hostel is in a super good location, and the people working here are all very informational. Bus station is only a few blocks away.

The coast is just 40-50 minutes away by bus, so many people also spend one day in the beach. We met a college student from Mexico city and he brought us to a very nice cozy local restaurant.

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Day 10: Palenque National Park and Zona Arqueologica Palenque

more pictures please check20111015_Zona Arqueologica Palenque, Mexico

I lost my laptop, so can only use my phone to document my trip now. So, it will be just very simple description of what I do everyday. U can always go to my PICASA to see the photo I take everyday. Not likely to list the linkage here. For first hand information, please add me to ur Facebook. (So, sorry if any typo, that happens all the time typing on phone)

The site is inside a national park, so in addition to the 51 peso ticket, u need to pay 25 pesos for the admission of the park. There are many small tour agencies on the streets, which will bring u to the site, but u can get to the site simply by taking ant shuttle on the street, 10 peso for each ride.

The site to me is just like Ankor Wat in a rain forest, this really differentiates Palenque from other ruins in Mexico. Also, there were much more foreign visitors here than in Monte Alban.

After the visit, I was so starving, as again, there is no food in the site, and the walk took me a few hours. I went to a small local restaurant and a lady showed me a newspaper with my picture. They reported the theft. wow,I don't know they were so serious about it.

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Day 9: A good lesson to learn on the way to Palenque, Mexio

Travelling was not all about good things, just I don’t expect the bad would come so soon. I read lots of other backpackers’ stories regarding theft in central and southern America and I think I have been very careful all the way. It just happened this morning, when I tried to fix my shoes, my bag disappeared in a few seconds, how did it happen?? I could not stop blaming myself for not being cautious enough. The bag is just a few second out of my vision and it is gone. It was a bad yet a good thing to happen at this point of my trip. Bad part is, it happened just one week after the trip started, good part is, I believe I will be even more cautious afterwards. Another bad part is, I lost not only my BRAND new laptop, but my BRAND new camera, yet, good part is my passport and all bank cards and credit cards are still with me. Thanks to my dearest friend John’s suggestion, I have a small concealed bag which is always attached to my waist, carrying all these important items.

Still feel sad, as I lost all the pictures of Monte Alban, which I really like to share with you. But, I still have to move on, not let this bad story affect my mood and destroy my trip, right?

It is stormy raining outside, like people always say, when the rain fades out, the sun is not far away.

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Day 8: Monte Alban at Oaxaca

The biggest pleasure you can get from traveling is always that something you don’t expect too much turns out amazes you the most.

more pictures are hereMonte Alban at Oaxaca, Mexico

Monte Alban, half hour away from downtown Oaxaca by bus, is located on a hilltop. When we reached the site, we just burst “wow”, it is really amazing, as it looks still pretty “complete” as an ancient city. The sign said it is the earliest urban “system” in America. The system consists not only religion places, but also government offices. Its urban planning was considered most sophisticated at its time.

Monte Alban is a place where, when you think you already have the best part of it, and you continue your walk in the site, it will show you an even more incredible view of it.

As it is in a hilltop, the entire site is covered by green grass and dotted by a lot of flowers and trees. You can rest at any place or sit on any stairway in the site, just let the wind flip through your face and smell the refreshment of grass. I personally like it better than Teotihuacan.

I lost my camera and can only show you the pictures taken by my phone.

You can take a bus in downtown Oaxaca, it will cost you 40 pesos for a round trip, and the return time is scheduled 3 hours post arriving time. Ticket to the site is 51 pesos. Instead of punching on the ticket, the security guy tear it into two pieces, my heart was broken as he did so, as I planned to make all the tickets we could obtain in Mexico a collection.

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Day 7: Museo Nacional de las Culturas at Oaxaca

There are two world heritages in Oaxaca, San Domingo Cathedral and Monte Alban. I went to the church before lunch, and realized it is not always open. Only the museum is open and the price of the ticket is 51 pesos, same as other places we have visited in Mexico City. And again, the format of the ticket looks just like the other tickets we have "collected" in Mexico City.

I could only "read" the church by its appearance, and imagine how magnificent it can be inside. Most parts of the building are now used by the museum. The exhibition in the museum is impressive and tells lots of stories of Mexico and Oaxaca. What impressed me the most is that, the museum adopted to the structure of the old construction, so you will need to walk through the rooms and the chambers in the building, in order to see the exhibition. I did not pay too much attention to the exhibition; instead, I was much more amazed by the structure and the decoration of the building.

I wish I could show you the pictures I took inside or outside the church, but my camera was stolen the day next……So sad

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Day 6: 再見，墨西哥城

今天從墨西哥城出發到南部的山中小城瓦哈卡(Oaxaca)，已經要離開墨西哥城了，卻還沒談到我們在這裡的住宿：Hotel Principal。四人房四晚美金156元，不含早餐。這旅館是從LA來的旅伴找的，不是青年旅館，但是價位和青年旅館帶衛浴的四人房也差不多，既然不是高級旅館，當然不可能有一般高級旅館的設備，但是整體而言清潔乾淨，每天有人來換床單、浴巾、補充香皂及瓶裝水等，在市中心算是很合算的住宿選擇。旅館位於古城區，即墨西哥城東北部，離Metro station San Juan de Letran兩個block，向東幾百公尺就是墨西哥市最著名歷史區(Historic Center)，憲法廣場、主教堂、國王宮殿、Templo Mayor (Grear temple)等知名景點就位在這裏。


上圖：旅館也位於一棟有點歷史的建築內

旅館一帶，從早到晚都有商家、小販營業，不怕找不到東西吃，24小時便利商店密集的程度幾乎可以和台北市區相比，一般物價比台北便宜約20%~30%，但美式速食店的價格則和台北不相上下，這一點和大陸有點像。附近好像有很多”夜店”，晚天漫天音樂作響常要到兩、三點方休(所以我戴耳塞睡覺)，街道上許多商家到夜晚就擺出小小、高高的圓桌，許多人就著桌子站著、一手拿著啤酒、一手吃著tacos，一邊嘻笑聊天，有一點蘭桂坊那一類酒吧街的味道。

更多照片在Mexico City_Hotel Principal 及古城區街景

上圖：旅館附近有許多不知名的小教堂

旅館正面對著高等法的圖書館，步行在旅館附近古城區一帶，大大小小、風格不一的教堂及美術館林立，一般的商家或民宅建物也是古意盎然，旅館往南的整街上多是賣吉他及各種樂器的店鋪，震耳欲聾的搖滾樂與巴洛克風格的建築物協奏出一種屬於古城區特別的味道。


上圖：巴士東站服務櫃檯，是不是有飛機航站的規模了?

清晨搭Metro到墨西哥城巴士東站 (Terminal Oriente)，由此出發到瓦哈卡的車很多。巴士東站很大很乾淨，我發現不論在北站或東站使用洗手間，都要投幣四披索，男女皆同，後來我注意了一下瓦哈卡車站的洗手間，也有同樣的投幣設施，估計墨西哥都是這樣的吧。我乘坐ADO 巴士直達瓦哈卡的車，票價440披索(一披索約台幣2.25元)，平均每兩小時發出一班，我坐的是九點出發的，車程約六個半小時，這個票價以墨西哥的物價來說是很貴的，坐阿囉哈到高雄也才幾百塊台幣而已，但是後來知道它貴有貴的價值。第一，我們到了侯車的那個gate才注意到行李須託運，他會發行李牌給你，下車時憑行李牌領行李。之前看背包客網站，中南美洲經營長途或跨國巴士的公司很多，價格、服務也差很多，智利、阿根廷還有供應紅酒的車呢(我一定會去試試看的)!!有人坐比較平價的車，包包被別人拿走，也有人包包明明就放在腳下，還是神不知鬼不覺的消失了，這種有託運服務的公司顯然比較有保障；第二，車廂非常乾淨，座椅很大很舒適，我們甚至還覺得，搭夜車的座椅如果有這個等級，就已經很好睡了；第三，車上有廁所，也很乾淨，且廁紙、擦手紙等一應俱全。

我們從墨西哥城出發，剛出市區，兩旁的建築物上都是塗鴉，無一例外，在台北看到街頭塗鴉時，常會想，這些應該都是不同人的作品，為何字體都一樣呢?還是說有種字體就叫做街頭塗鴉體(哈)!墨西哥的街頭塗鴉風格變化較多，連字體也比較多種，有些和我們常見的POP還頗像的呢!

墨西哥城是西半球最古老的都市，也是墨西哥的首都；廣義的墨西哥城指加上周邊衛星城市組成的大墨西哥城地區，人口達1,850萬以上(很多吧，我也嚇一跳，不出門不知道世界多大)，讓它成為世界上最大的都市之一；墨西哥城的平均海拔超過2,240公尺，因此也讓它成為全世界海拔最高的都會區。

更多照片在20111011_From Mexico City to Oaxaca, Mexico

上圖：車窗外，墨西哥城最後一瞥

墨西哥城四周環繞著峻峭的群山，位於南端的波波卡特佩特爾火山有5452公尺高，出城的路上，只覺地勢漸高，慢慢的，整個墨西哥市已被連綿不絕的山脈所吞噬，網路上說這種地形使得相對地勢較低的墨西哥城如同在山谷裏，空氣較不易流通，氣侯顯得燥熱而不舒服(怎麼好像在說成都)，可能因為我們造訪的時間已近秋天了，這幾天覺得氣侯還算舒適，到了下午五、六點就開始下起雨，還好都是在行程結束了之後。如果要好好地欣賞墨西哥城，順便走訪近郊的景區，應該得要在這裏待上一星期，如果回程時還有時間的話，也許會再回到這個高原之都。

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Day 5: 墨西哥的世界遺產

擁有27個世界文化遺產及4個世界自然遺產，使墨西哥成為擁有最多世界遺產的第六名，這麼多的旅遊資源，如果想好好遊覽墨西哥，花上一整個月的時間也不算多，前天去的historic center和昨天去的Tenochtitlan都是世界文化遺產。擁有最多世界遺產的國家是義大利，這不令人意外，畢竟義大利是文藝復興發源地，不過第二名的西班牙，我就比較不能理解，感覺它的歷史還沒有悠久到能擁有比其他國家更多的世界遺產。所謂的世界遺產，畢竟也是少數一群人所選出來的，其代表性如何，很難評斷，能被選上的，絕不差，但沒有列名的，也不代表其重要性就比較低；再說，也得看每個國家是不是有著力於申請世遺，中國就有申世遺熱(當然中國的"熱"很多，比如奧數熱)，但是估計人類的起源地-非洲，那些國家還不太會在這上面做文章。

看看中國的世界遺產名單，會發現很多地方我已經去過，也不禁要發出，原來這個也是的驚嘆聲，比如說，今年六月造訪過的安陽殷墟。我絕對認同殷墟在中國文化發源上的代表意義，但要從這個角度來看的話，能侯選上的應該還有很多，所以說，現在排名第三的中國，應該很快就能凌駕義大利及西班牙之上，成為擁有最多世界遺產的國家。韓寒也說過，中國樣樣要拿第一，而且一定能拿第一，也一定會拿下最多世界第一的金氏世界紀錄。才剛去過的華山，出租車師傅跟我說，也在申請世遺，現在門票已經180人民幣的華山，如果真的列上世遺，不知還要增加多少票價，還好我先去了。

我的旅行，並沒有以參觀世界遺產為出發點來安排，如果能有幸"順便"遊覽到，自然再好不過，畢竟人人心裏有一把尺(這字話用在這裏有點怪，但差不多也就這個意思)，有的人面對黃鶴樓，能譜出千古傳唱的絕句，也有人看到乍暖還寒的早春，就能寫出"陽春召我以煙景，大塊假我以文章"的美文，有的人則只能寫寫部落格留念，而且還不見得有什麼訪客，所以說，自己喜歡、感動，最要緊。

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Day 4: 墨西哥近郊 Teotihuacán 遺跡、市區國立人類學博物館

墨西哥城Metro，看起來應該有一段時間了，清潔、明亮這部分不能拿來跟台灣的捷運相比，但是線路四通八達，非常方便，更棒的是，不論你坐幾站，換了幾條線，都是一票到底，一票三披索。這幾天坐了幾次Metro，其中兩次有人在車上彈吉他賣藝，幾乎每次都會看到有人在車廂內販售商品，最常見的是小販背著雙肩背包，手上拿著光碟和CD player，背包裏裝著喇叭，邊放著音樂，邊兜售光碟。在很多都市Metro裏面即使有賣食物，也是在進站前、售票口附近的小店，但在墨西哥，進站後不只有小商店，連月台過道、走道，都有各種小販，想當然爾，車廂內看到有人吃東西或賣東西也就不足為奇了。


坐Metro到Autobuses del Norte station，一走出Metro車站就看到超大的巴士站，為連接墨西哥城最重要的陸上交通樞紐，走了一圈各公司的售票處，發現還有車子到芝加哥，應該會坐到屁服痛吧。從這裏坐車到北部40公里的Teotihuacán，票價只要36披索，約一小時車程，經營這條路線的公司在Gate 8左邊數來的第二檯櫃，巴士到達景區大門售票口一帶，離開景區時則在月亮金字塔左側出口搭車，我不確定大門口是否也有回程的車，不過在這個出口搭車，因為路線和過來時略有不同，會經過一個很可愛的墨西哥小鎮。

Teotihuacán指人成為神的地方，書上說建於第二世紀初，到八世紀時神奇消失，阿茲提克人於十五世紀發現這個遺址，雖然主體具存，但關於它的源起及殞落，沒有任何資料可徇，可以確定的是，這裏算是當時人口最密集的大都市。

更多照片在Mexico City_Teotihuacán 太陽及月亮金字塔

上圖：羽蛇神殿

從售票口進景區，第一部分是羽蛇神殿，羽蛇是當時的水神。


上圖：死亡之路

步出羽蛇神殿這一區，走過一條小徑就到了死亡之路的路口。Avenue of the Dear, 這名稱其實是阿茲提克人誤以為它是通往死亡的通路而命名的。




上兩圖：太陽金字塔

由死亡之路往月亮金字塔方前進，太陽金字塔即位於死亡之路的右側。DK書上說太陽金字塔是世上最大的金字塔，我有點懷疑，能大過以金字塔聞名於世的埃及的金字塔嗎?但我想這也不重要，畢竟我們不是在追求世界之最。太陽金字塔裏面有通道及房間，然而卻沒有留下多少可以見證當時生活文明的歷史軌跡。




上兩圖：月亮金字塔


上圖：月亮金字塔前死亡之路


上圖：月亮金字塔上看到景區全景，不過我們去的這天，最高的部分被藩籬圍起來，如果能到最頂端，應該視野更好。



月亮金字塔在死亡之路底，高度不及太陽金字塔，然而階梯陡了一些，我的旅伴蛋頭有點輕微懼高症，從金字塔上下來，得做點心理建設才能完成。這兩天發現，早點出門的好處是，遊客比較少，但早上的氣溫仍低，霧也還重，這時拍的相片效果差了點(當然也可能是因為我的技術還停留在auto階段)。

回到市區，坐Metro到Chapultepec station，出站後穿過查布林特佩克公園，即到了墨西哥城最重要的博物館，國立人類學博物館(Museo Nacional de Antropologia)。


上圖：查布林特佩克公園，假日午後萬頭鑽動的景象


上圖：占地12.5萬平方米的人類學博物館是拉丁美洲最大和最著名的博物館之一。墨西哥城是西半球最古老的城市，市內以及城市周圍星羅棋佈的古印地安人文化遺跡是墨西哥也是全人類文明歷史的寶貴財產。博物館集古印第安文物之大成，介紹了人類學、墨西哥文化的起源以及印第安人的民族、藝術、宗教和生活，僅西班牙人入侵前的歷史文物展品就有60多萬件。博物館的建築融印第安傳統風格與現代藝術為一體，充分表現出墨西哥人民深厚的文化內涵。

今天兩個景點的票價也都是51披索，門票和昨天的Templo Mayor大小格式一樣，是很適合蒐集(不是"搜"集)的紀念品，好想知道，51這個價錢是否有特殊的意義。Teotihuacán景區內，死亡之路上雖然有賣紀念品的小販，但沒有販賣食物的地方，要出景區到外圍攤販處才有賣水，遊覽整個景區大概要三小時，習慣走路或登高就要補充食物的人，要自已帶零食和水進來。

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Day 3: Mexico City_Historic Center 漫步古城區憲法廣場一帶

週六上午四點就醒了，還在與時差抵抗的我，一直在等旅伴醒來，出門吃早餐。這時節的墨西哥，太陽出來的晚，將落幕的月光和稀稀落落(又打成希希落落)的路燈襯著來自遙遠國度旅人的腳步，古城在我們的期待中漸漸甦醒。天亮後才發現，古城中，不是單行道就是步行街，只容兩輛車身的馬路，兩邊是別有味道的古老建築，顯得格外可愛。這裏的馬路，就是馬走的路，旅伴說，古城區就像是少了點浪漫的歐洲古城。




上兩圖：旅館外面甦醒中的古城區

清晨，往憲法廣場(Plaza de la Constitution)的路上，遊客三三兩兩，絕大多數的店還沒開，那時我們還不知道，此刻步行過的區域到了下午，會是怎樣喧鬧、人聲頂沸。現在迎接我們的，只是一攤攤的早餐，有墨西哥常見的小吃或現打的果汁。



上圖：今日早餐，好吃，14披索，一披索約台幣2.25元

更多照片在Mexico City_Historic Center, Plaza de la Constitution, Palacio Nacional

時間還早，憲法廣場上只有童軍團體在拍合影照，圍繞著憲法廣場的古建築，包括最知名的國家宮殿、主教堂及Templo Mayor (Great Temple)。

更多照片在Mexico City_Templo Mayor

Templo Mayor，門票51披索，這個價錢是不是比大陸各景點門票實惠多了。英文名為Great temple，是阿茲特克最重要的宗教遺址，最早建立於1325年，十四、十五世紀中前後經七次的擴建，西班牙人佔領後幾乎全毀，至1978年始被發掘。今日的墨西哥城是16世紀時，西班牙征服者打敗印地安文明阿茲特克帝國之後，將其首都特諾奇提特蘭（Tenochtitlán）夷平，再在廢墟上重新建立而起的城市，也是西班牙人在新大陸上建立的國家新西班牙（Nueva España）的首都，Templo Mayor 就位於特諾奇提特蘭中心。特諾奇提特蘭是從一個湖面上不穩定的地基所建立起來的都市，受洪水及地震影響，不斷下陷，故只得以一層包一層的方式擴建，而最古老的部分已被後來的擴建所埋藏，不可復見。

更多照片在Mexico City_Catedral Metropolitana

上圖：主教堂(Catedral Metropolitana)：是拉丁美洲最大的天主教堂，也是世界最大的天主教區，從西元1525到1813年，歷經三個世紀的建築才完成。這麼長的建築期間造就這個擁有不同時期建築、藝術特色的教堂，裏面的壁畫、雕刻及家俱見證當時代的文化特色，也是墨西哥城最有價值的文物。

我的西語旅遊書上說，教堂一般分三種，各區域最大的是主教堂，曾發生過特別事蹟的稱為聖堂，再來就是最常見的教堂，主教堂的重要性不言可喻。中南美洲90%以上人口信仰天主教，參觀教堂是中南美旅遊行程的一大特色。


上圖：各處都有人誠心的禱告


上圖：Major Sacristy—主教堂不用門票，但進來這個小房間要10披索，

更多照片在Mexico City_Historic Center, Plaza de la Constitution, Palacio Nacional

上圖：國家宮殿(Palacio Nacional)，到今日仍為總統辦公室，財政部也在此辦公，墨西哥城享有“壁畫之都”的美譽，許多建築物的牆壁上繪有反映古代印第安人生活和墨西哥歷史發展進程的壁畫，這些歷史悠久的建築已成為該城的一大景觀。




上兩圖：國家宮殿內的壁畫


上圖：廣場邊的小販，身著印第安服裝，販賣各種印第安圖騰的商品

午後，主教堂外滿滿商販及遊客，憲法廣場上也都是人。有看到印第安人在路邊幫人家收驚，手上拿著奇怪顏色的藥水，但在這種儀式中，不敢拿相機出來照。逛完幾個景點，在路邊買了新鮮現打果汁，只要12披索。


午後，回旅館的路上，也是萬頭鑽動的景象，人潮不斷往憲法廣場移動。只有我們跟別人往不同的方向移動，回旅館休息路上，開始飄起小雨，還好出門的早。

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